I spent last night packing so that my day would be free to say good bye to some of my favorite haunts and to do some last minute exploring of Castello sestiere. I crossed over the bridge into Castello and started to wander the streets. To my surprise some of the stores looked familiar and I knew immediately that I had already "discovered" Castello a few days earlier, but, was just unaware that I was there. I went up and down a few streets and alleys and past Campo San Leo. I wandered aimlessly snapping photos when I came across something new and unique.
The weather had turned warmer again so I tried to stick to the narrow alleys where the heat was less oppressive. I eventually ended up in Piazza San Marco Square, where I bid a silent farewell to that impressive square. I said good bye to the mouth of the Grand Canal where the gondolas bobbed in syncopated rhythm under the azure sky. I meandered along, whispering my good byes as I came across familiar streets, stores, scenes and canals.
When I spied a restaurant whose menu promised that risotto could be ordered for one, something rarely seen in Venice, I decided to give their risotto a try. The interior was dark and lovely and cozy. I requested to be re-seated in the main dining room where I sat next to Karen and Stephen from Perth, Australia. Next to them were a young Indian couple who had migrated from India to Brisbane. All of us chatted merrily about our stay in Venice and about our other travel adventures. The conversation was delightful. I wish I could say the same for the risotto. It was the worse risotto I had every tasted... mushy and tasteless. On the positive side, again, the prosecco was superb. I didn't want to chance dessert so I said my good -byes to my new friends and continued on my way.
As often happens in Venice, I took a different alley and ended up somewhere I had never been, but, I could tell it was way past Gelato Fantasy. On a whim, I decided to stop at another gelato stand a quite close to my apartment. The amarena gelato looked delicious and thankfully it was. Was it is good as the one at Gelato Fantasy? I was not sure. After the horrible risotto perhaps anything would taste delicious. Licking my gelato with relish I continued my my good-bye tour.
My good bye to the Rialto Bridge was the most poignant. Standing on that bridge as had so many times in the last two weeks, I felt a wave of sadness overtake me. My sadness was combined with the same awe that struck me every time I reached the apex of the bridge and stared out at the visual feast before me. I have travelled extensively throughout the U.S. and have been to Paris and Portugal, but, I am convinced that nowhere on earth is as impressive as Venice and it's Grand Canal. I defy anyone to gaze at this sight and not marvel at the engineering feat, created so long ago, that resulted in this Wonder of the World.
After tidying the apartment and finalizing my departure plans, I headed to "my restaurant", Hosteria Ai Vecio Bragosso, where I was greeted with all the fanfare usually reserved for royalty. I was immediately seated inside at "my table" and given a glass of prosecco on the house. I spoke with Enrico, the proprietor, and told him, it was my last day in Venice. He looked at me wistfully, and then a slightly sad smile flitted across his face. He then rushed away and produced an appetizer ... again gratis.
In between my courses the prosecco flowed freely and my glass was never empty. Enrico also produced a cleansing sorbet, in which I also detected some alcohol. After finishing my monkfish with a balsamic glaze, Enrico appeared again and with great flourish produced a "special dessert" for me which was some kind of tiramisu made with deep chocolate cookies and topped with whipped cream. Although I had no dinner companions on my last night, other than the delightful Enrico, my evening was indeed a memorable one.
When he came with my bill, Enrico made a point of going over it with me. He wanted me to know that I was not charged for all the lavish extras I had received. He made me promise to return someday... and to tell everyone how much I enjoyed my meals ... on TripAdvisor! I chuckled and promised I would (a promise I have kept) and we embraced as I left the restaurant one last time. I walked up and down the eerily empty Strada Nuova before heading down the tiny alleys to my home away from home.
When dawn broke I quickly got ready and headed to the spot on the Grand Canal where the water taxi would pick me up. Standing right on a dock, water level to the canal, I was once again struck with wonder. While waiting for the water taxi that would take me away from this fantasyland, I contemplated the Grand Canal, Venice and all that I had seen. It had been an unforgettable journey filled with incredible sights and beauty. Would I ever return to this breathtaking and enchanted place? Given my advancing years, it is a little unlikely. While it made me sad, I knew that for two wonderful and magical weeks I had lived a dream.. and for that I will be eternally grateful.
From the water taxi I took one final look back at La Serenissima and hopefully whispered a quiet "Arrivederci Venice... until we meet again!"
